Comments for Reynerson's Gunsmith Service http://www.reynersons.com Gunsmith in Baton Rouge Wed, 27 Apr 2011 01:16:36 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1.2 Comment on Welcome to Reynerson’s Gunsmith Service in Baton Rouge by Gunsmith Guy http://www.reynersons.com/reynersonsgunsmithserviceinbatonrouge/#comment-1 Gunsmith Guy Wed, 27 Apr 2011 01:16:36 +0000 http://www.reynersons.com/?p=1#comment-1 Looking forward to info on gunsmith info soon! Looking forward to info on gunsmith info soon!

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by admin http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-42 admin Fri, 21 May 2010 19:35:24 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-42 Package the Bersa securely in the original box if you have it. Include the issue you are having with it, your Name, return address and phone number, so if there are any questions, we can contact you. Thank You, Reynerson's Gunsmith Service Package the Bersa securely in the original box if you have it. Include the issue you are having with it, your Name, return address and phone number, so if there are any questions, we can contact you.
Thank You,
Reynerson’s Gunsmith Service

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by John http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-41 John Fri, 21 May 2010 15:04:15 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-41 Mr. Gunsmith. I just purchased a brand new Bersa Thunder .380 only to find when I got it home the entire weapon was marked with scratches and wear marks on the frame and the slide. Upon contacting Bersa they told me they would contact you and that I should ship my weapon to you for "repair." How should I go about shipping this weapon to you? Mr. Gunsmith.
I just purchased a brand new Bersa Thunder .380 only to find when I got it home the entire weapon was marked with scratches and wear marks on the frame and the slide. Upon contacting Bersa they told me they would contact you and that I should ship my weapon to you for “repair.” How should I go about shipping this weapon to you?

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by Ron McCabe http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-32 Ron McCabe Tue, 26 Jan 2010 18:01:07 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-32 I recently purchased a Remington Model 5 .22 rifle and mounted a Leupold .22 scope on it. It is very accurate for a rifle in this price range, but the trigger has lots of creep and breaks at maybe 6 pounds or more. The trigger assembly has adjustments for creep, letoff weight, and overtravel, but I am not going to attempt these adjustments, Is this something you could do? If so, I will bring the rifle to you. I live in Geismar. P.S. Overtravel seems to be minimal. <strong>Answer:</strong> Ron Yes, we are a Remington Warranty Station, as well as for Browning, Winchester, and several other gun companies. And we are able to adjust a trigger as well as do complete trigger jobs if required. Bring it by and we will fix you up. Thanks, Reynerson's I recently purchased a Remington Model 5 .22 rifle and mounted a Leupold .22 scope on it.
It is very accurate for a rifle in this price range, but the trigger has lots of creep and breaks
at maybe 6 pounds or more. The trigger assembly has adjustments for creep, letoff weight, and overtravel, but I am not going to attempt these adjustments,

Is this something you could do? If so, I will bring the rifle to you. I live in Geismar.

P.S. Overtravel seems to be minimal.

Answer:

Ron
Yes, we are a Remington Warranty Station, as well as for Browning, Winchester, and several other gun companies. And we are able to adjust a trigger as well as do complete trigger jobs if required. Bring it by and we will fix you up.
Thanks,
Reynerson’s

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by Gary http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-31 Gary Thu, 14 Jan 2010 16:29:00 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-31 Referring to; "Roger Said, posted July 26th 2009" Firing my new Bersa .380 recently, I load the magazine w/ ammo into the handle, fire til it was empty and the slide stays in the rear position correct?? Whan I remove the empty magazine and insert a loaded magazine again, with the slide still in the 'rear' position, the slide 'automatically' closes forward and chambers a round as soon as I fully insert the new magazine. This is correct functioning is it not?? At first I would have expected that I would have had to release the slide with the slide release to chamber the first round of the next magazine. Also,,, I have a Walther PP, .32 caliper semi-auto I purchased pre-owned. When fired, sometimes the weapon would fire 'full-auto'. I returned it and the shop repaired it for me. Not firing it with-in a resonable amount of time, I took it to the range again rencently and now, it may fire with no ejecting/chambering problems and sometimes it will fire but not eject nor push the slide back. I must physically pull on the slide to chamber another round and fire again. Suggestions??? Ammo?? Spring?? Thanks,,,Gary. <strong> Answer:</strong> Gary, Your Bersa sounds like it has a worn slide catch. If you send it to us, we will fix it for you under Warranty. On the PP, it may be the ammo. If it were the springs, I would expect the problem to occur each time it was fired. Take it back to where they fixed it and explain your problem and see if they can help you out. Thanks, Reynerson's Gunsmith Service Referring to; “Roger Said, posted July 26th 2009″

Firing my new Bersa .380 recently, I load the magazine w/ ammo into the handle, fire til it was empty and the slide stays in the rear position correct??

Whan I remove the empty magazine and insert a loaded magazine again, with the slide still in the ‘rear’ position, the slide ‘automatically’ closes forward and chambers a round as soon as I fully insert the new magazine. This is correct functioning is it not??

At first I would have expected that I would have had to release the slide with the slide release to chamber the first round of the next magazine.

Also,,, I have a Walther PP, .32 caliper semi-auto I purchased pre-owned. When fired, sometimes the weapon would fire ‘full-auto’. I returned it and the shop repaired it for me.

Not firing it with-in a resonable amount of time, I took it to the range again rencently and now, it may fire with no ejecting/chambering problems and sometimes it will fire but not eject nor push the slide back. I must physically pull on the slide to chamber another round and fire again. Suggestions??? Ammo?? Spring??

Thanks,,,Gary.

Answer:

Gary,
Your Bersa sounds like it has a worn slide catch. If you send it to us, we will fix it for you under Warranty. On the PP, it may be the ammo. If it were the springs, I would expect the problem to occur each time it was fired. Take it back to where they fixed it and explain your problem and see if they can help you out.
Thanks,
Reynerson’s Gunsmith Service

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by centraltown225 http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-30 centraltown225 Mon, 04 Jan 2010 01:25:30 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-30 Corey, I live right there in central and I was wondering if yall could make a cylincer for a weatherby 270? thanks <strong>Answer:</strong> Corey, Silencers are regulated by the federal government. They require a $200 stamp and a federally licensed manufacturer to build them. We do not have the proper license to do this. Silencers work best with subsonic ammunition and the Weatherby round will still be quite noisy even if fired through a silencer Corey,
I live right there in central and I was wondering if yall could make a cylincer for a weatherby 270? thanks

Answer:

Corey,
Silencers are regulated by the federal government. They require a $200 stamp and a federally licensed manufacturer to build them. We do not have the proper license to do this. Silencers work best with subsonic ammunition and the Weatherby round will still be quite noisy even if fired through a silencer

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by Russell http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-28 Russell Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:34:32 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-28 I have two colt 1877 da's. Both are in fair condition but they do not work. Someone told me that the springs are broken. Can you guys repair these or can you recomend someone? What kind of price are we looking at? (100's or 1000's) Thanks. <strong> Answer: </strong> We can get replacement springs. A high % of these guns do not work. They are an early design and fragile. If these guns are in good condition, they would be worth repairing, other wise I would leave as they are. I have worked on these guns numerous times in the past. This is not going to be cheap but i need to see the guns first. I have two colt 1877 da’s. Both are in fair condition but they do not work. Someone told me that the springs are broken. Can you guys repair these or can you recomend someone? What kind of price are we looking at? (100′s or 1000′s) Thanks.

Answer:

We can get replacement springs. A high % of these guns do not work. They are an early design and fragile. If these guns are in good condition, they would be worth repairing, other wise I would leave as they are. I have worked on these guns numerous times in the past. This is not going to be cheap but i need to see the guns first.

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by Mark Esparza http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-27 Mark Esparza Sat, 19 Sep 2009 12:21:26 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-27 I have a S&W military and police revolver that was made in 1907 and is in great shape. I loaded some .38 special ammo that uses lead 158 gr. LSWC at 850 fps. and every so often the gun locks up after firing. I find that if I push the thumb piece back and forth, it frees up the action and I can shoot some more. I thought it might be a spring but a buddy thought it needed the services of a gunsmith. Any idea on why my revolver is locking up? Mark <strong>Answer:</strong> Mark, To make an educated guess, I would check the revolver for end shake on the cylinder. I would also check the cylinder pin(small pin inside enjector rod). The bolt assembly and spring should be looked at. These are the first things I would look at if these things are on my bench. Any one of these could cause the trouble you described. But, Smith makes a wonderful pistol and it's worth getting it repaired. Reynerson's Gunsmith Service I have a S&W military and police revolver that was made in 1907 and is in great shape. I loaded some .38 special ammo that uses lead 158 gr. LSWC at 850 fps. and every so often the gun locks up after firing. I find that if I push the thumb piece back and forth, it frees up the action and I can shoot some more. I thought it might be a spring but a buddy thought it needed the services of a gunsmith. Any idea on why my revolver is locking up?
Mark

Answer:

Mark,
To make an educated guess, I would check the revolver for end shake on the cylinder. I would also check the cylinder pin(small pin inside enjector rod). The bolt assembly and spring should be looked at. These are the first things I would look at if these things are on my bench. Any one of these could cause the trouble you described. But, Smith makes a wonderful pistol and it’s worth getting it repaired.
Reynerson’s Gunsmith Service

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by Joe http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-26 Joe Wed, 16 Sep 2009 23:29:26 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-26 Mr. Gunsmith, I have an old Marlin 336 chambered for 30/30. When firing standard factory ammo, there is a noticable bulge in the case just forward of the rim. The cartridges don't stick in the chamber and none have split, but the stretching is concerning. Someone told me that either the bolt was too short or the chamber was too short- sounds like a factory default? Do you think the gun is safe to use or should I have it looked at? I don't reload; I discard the used casings. P.S. I am a machinist by trade so I may be able to do some work myself if you know what needs to be done. <strong>Answer:</strong> If the cartridges are bulged, the chamber may be too large in diameter. You should have the head space checked as well. Although on a rimmed cartridge, the head space is measured from the breach face to the front surface of the rim of the cartridge. The 336 locks at the rear of the bolt and hence is somewhat "Springy" and will allow the cartridges to stretch. If the cartridges do not show any signs of separating at the bulge, this may not be as big a problem as it would appear to be. Mr. Gunsmith,

I have an old Marlin 336 chambered for 30/30. When firing standard factory ammo, there is a noticable bulge in the case just forward of the rim. The cartridges don’t stick in the chamber and none have split, but the stretching is concerning. Someone told me that either the bolt was too short or the chamber was too short- sounds like a factory default? Do you think the gun is safe to use or should I have it looked at? I don’t reload; I discard the used casings.

P.S. I am a machinist by trade so I may be able to do some work myself if you know what needs to be done.

Answer:

If the cartridges are bulged, the chamber may be too large in diameter. You should have the head space checked as well. Although on a rimmed cartridge, the head space is measured from the breach face to the front surface of the rim of the cartridge. The 336 locks at the rear of the bolt and hence is somewhat “Springy” and will allow the cartridges to stretch. If the cartridges do not show any signs of separating at the bulge, this may not be as big a problem as it would appear to be.

]]> Comment on Ask the Gunsmith by mike http://www.reynersons.com/ask-the-gunsmith/#comment-25 mike Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:06:01 +0000 http://blog.reynersons.com/?page_id=3#comment-25 I have a remington 700 about 10 years old and I am interested in getting some work done to make it shoot better. Besides a trigger job I what else can I do to make that happen. Also it is hard to chamber a round the the bullets will get mared. I would appreciate any imput you may have on this matter and possibly an estimated price for the work to be done. <strong>Answer:</strong> Mike, A trigger job to make the trigger crisper, lighter and remove overtravel will indeed make you shoot your rifle better. Also, after 10 years you probably have a jacket fouled bore, you must remove all traces of copper from the bore for best acuracy. The guard screws must be torqued to the proper tension and the bedding in the stock should be inspected, with particular attention paid to the barrel channel and recoil lug area. Of course, the scope mounts and rings should be checked to insure they are properly installed. All these little things combined, make your rifle more accurate. I have a remington 700 about 10 years old and I am interested in getting some work done to make it shoot better. Besides a trigger job I what else can I do to make that happen. Also it is hard to chamber a round the the bullets will get mared. I would appreciate any imput you may have on this matter and possibly an estimated price for the work to be done.

Answer:

Mike,
A trigger job to make the trigger crisper, lighter and remove overtravel will indeed make you shoot your rifle better. Also, after 10 years you probably have a jacket fouled bore, you must remove all traces of copper from the bore for best acuracy. The guard screws must be torqued to the proper tension and the bedding in the stock should be inspected, with particular attention paid to the barrel channel and recoil lug area. Of course, the scope mounts and rings should be checked to insure they are properly installed. All these little things combined, make your rifle more accurate.

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